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The last time I took down Christmas decorations in April was more than a decade ago. But since it seems as much like Christmas now as it did five months ago–hot as ever, and sweaty, too–pulling the white paper snowflakes from their threads doesn’t seem any stranger than hanging them did.

I probably wouldn’t take them down at all, were we not about to move. Our six-month lease is up on the second of our Saigon apartments, and we’re moving out now for a couple of practical reasons: 1. To make sure our landlord has plenty of time to cough up our $1200 deposit, and 2. We’re going on two weeks’ holiday and don’t want to pay double rent. Plus, we love the idea of someone else washing our towels for awhile.

Next week is our last week of this term, and we’ll spend it in a great new hotel down the block. Then we’ll spend two months seeing the rest of Vietnam; we’ll travel by train to Hanoi, see Halong Bay and hopefully Sapa, and then head back down to the imperial capital, Hue, and end with the beach resort towns.

After that, we’ll teach for five more weeks, and then we’ll head back to California for a long, long time (student loans permitting–still crossing our fingers for a decent offer).

We haven’t posted much lately because there hasn’t been much to say. Work and food and sleep. Phu My Hung–our neighborhood–is surprisingly Lodi-esque. Big, quiet streets with dining options to stave off the boredom. We’re regulars at the Thai place downstairs. There’s the cutest little waitress there with a gap between her teeth; she smiles mischievously whenever we order, probably shocked at the amount of pad thai two westerners can shovel in!

We’re thinking of you all right now, and praying that this swine flu thing fizzles out and doesn’t hurt you. Love to you all, Heather (and Joel!)

For those of you who don’t know, we’ve set up a joint Facebook page and would love to see you there. Search “Joel N. Heather” and it’ll come up. We’ll keep making occasional blog posts here, but for little, everyday, still-alive stuff, check us out on there! We love you!

I’ll admit that crossing the border back into Vietnam after twelve great days in Cambodia didn’t supply that typical “glad to be home” pleasure. The apartment’s still beautiful and we were glad to have foiled robbers with our laptop disguise (dirty underwear and Christmas tinsel). But after Cambodia, brimming with UNESCO heritage sights and non-greasy food and people who mean their smiles and negotiate fairly and don’t carry huge chips of confused political pride on their shoulders, I half-hoped that the man at the border would deny us entry.

He didn’t.

But I guess that’s the mid-contract blues talking. We’re back to work Monday for weeks 9 and 10 of this term, and then we’re off for another (unpaid–so don’t be too jealous) week. When we return March 2 to start the next term, we’ll have four months to go. Then I’ll be happy. I need an end in sight.

I want to write all about Cambodia. There’s so much to tell. I don’t have time to do it justice right now, but I will say that if you’re planning a trip to Southeast Asia, Siem Reap should top your list. Everything important to see in Vietnam can be covered in less than a week, and Thailand (from what I hear, though I might contradict myself later) is Las Vegas of the East these days. But I could spend a month in Angkor and learn something new every day. Gawking at 1,000-year old carvings, riding my bike beneath towering trees as I whiz past monkeys and elephants to the next site. It was the best travel experience of my life. Easily. I daresay: better than Paris.

I’ll write more about that later and post some wonderful pictures. For now, though, I have to go and cook Joel a bland dinner. He’s had a few stomachaches over the past month; yesterday we went to the doctor,  who discovered a tiny parasite–a souvenir from the new Vietnamese restaurant in our neighborhood. It’s common here and he’s on medication to kill the creature. Ah, Health Departments. What a novel invention those are. 

I look forward to sharing a pristine taco-truck meal with all of you soon. So long for now…

We’re enjoying the long “summer” break. Went back to Mui Ne–the closest we can get to the cabin, though everyone I explain this to (the beach reminds you of the mountains?) doesn’t get it. Something to do with candy necklaces, I think.

We’re in Tet-crazed Saigon today and looking forward to leaving it. So much chaos. Imagine Times Square on Christmas Eve through the eyes of someone unfamiliar with nativity scenes and santas. Still, I’m glad to see them so happy.

Tomorrow we’re making the 12-hour bus ride to Siem Reap. We’re staying at the Lotus Lodge (www.lotuslodgecambodia.com), which is owned by a very nice Dutch man and his Cambodian wife–I think that’s the story. He’s been very helpful already, and I think we’ll have a wonderful time. Joel and I have been saying that we’ve “wanted to see Angkor Wat our whole lives,” which isn’t quite true, since we’d barely heard of it a few years ago. Having seen the pictures, though, we’re eager!

We’ll stay in Siem Reap for at least six days before heading back down to Phnom Penh, where we’ll probably stay a night or so. After that, we’ll either hit the south coast beaches or go down the Mekong back to Vietnam to finally see the famed Delta that’s been two hours away for eight months. No matter what, we will post something here before Saturday, February 7. 

By the way, I’ve been a bad blogger lately and didn’t notice that there were–not kidding–”94 comments awaiting approval.” Between the Viagra offers and mystery messages, there were a handful from family. Sorry to take so long to notice! One I particularly enjoyed was news from my Aunt Michele: My talented cousin Ella performed in “A Christmas Carol” at S.F.’s A.C.T. last month! Congratulations, Ella! 

We miss you all and will post exciting photos soon. You’ve probably seen enough of Mui Ne.

Have a great summer vacation–wait, that’s me…

Love, H (& J)



Christmas

Originally uploaded by heatherandjoel.


Here’s us at Christmas on our balcony! Now we’re off to Mui Ne for New Year’s–can’t wait!

Love you all!

H&J

We get exactly one day off for Christmas: the day itself. Then it’s back to work on Friday. I’m not sure what we’re doing yet. There are lots of sad little parties planned, but I’m tempted to just go downtown and watch a movie. Or find that Mexican restaurant. The novelty of sunbathing during the holidays is waning. 

I wish we could be there with you all this year. We’d hoped to get jobs at a Korean uni, not a Vietnamese one–if we had, we’d have a full month off to fly back. But I guess we weren’t thinking about Christmas in July. Funny: It still feels like July. A perpetual summer.

But it’s not all bad here. Our apartment is the best we’ve ever had in our lives. There are three balconies, all with screen doors. In the morning, the sunlight spills in and we open everything up and feel like we’re half-outside. Yesterday I called in sick (cough, cough) and read in the hammock until the strings made deep lines on my backside. 

We’ll take pictures soon of the loft and the neighborhood we live in. It’s all done up with lights and decorations now. So strange to sweat by a Christmas tree.

Hope you’re well. Enjoy your holiday chill! Oh, to wear a scarf right now…

Our Turkey Trot this morning didn’t feel any different from our normal runs–except, perhaps, that I did notice and give thanks for the slight breeze that made the heat a touch more bearable. Two lady tourists sitting under a cafe umbrella gasped when they saw my sweat: “You run in this?” I told them I was used to it and then realized it was true. I don’t even get that ugly heat rash anymore.

Today might be the first Thanksgiving Day we’ve ever gone to work. No one will feel very sorry for us, since it’s just an American holiday. We’ll join with the other Yanks for some kind of dinner tonight (I’m pushing for Mexican–my dream Thanksgiving meal!). A few representatives of the mother country will probably join us, which should make for some fun needling.

Anyway, we wish we were with you all today. Have a wonderful time together!

(And if you’re seeing the news about Bangkok and wondering if that’s affecting us, it’s not. It’s a different country, different government, separated from us by Cambodia and Laos. We’d planned to go to Thailand for Tet and now we probably won’t, so we’re disappointed, but danger-free. Sadly, it looks like my dreams of India will have to wait awhile, too. It’s terrible what’s just happened there. But we’re totally safe, and giving thanks for that! So please don’t worry–we’re fine!)

We love you all. Happy Thanksgiving!!

Last night I dreamt that Obama died of some freak natural cause, and I woke up and asked Angie if it was true. She shook her head and confirmed that it was: “Michelle cried for 25 hours straight.” I opened my eyes a second time, strangely relieved that my sister is in Sacramento, not Saigon: The dream-within-a dream was only that.

Joel’s 33rd birthday will forever fuse with the best TV moment of my memory. We didn’t have a crowd-around-the-TV party with friends, the way we would in a different time zone. The polls were opening when we went to bed, and we woke up at six and spent Joel’s birthday morning with CNN. By noon, the banner flashed. We didn’t scream. We didn’t hug each other. We sat quietly in our chairs and cried with Oprah, in awe of a moment we hadn’t quite expected. Our cynicism crushed by something better. The hope of a new America.

It’s still just hitting us: In our lifetime, in our relative youth, we will have a leader who reflects our dreams and values. We’re overjoyed. Beyond it. Hence that crazy nightmare.

So. We moved to a wonderful new apartment in the posh Phu My Hung neighborhood near the university. Vietnamese noveau riche, with whom we share an economic class, don’t believe in climbing stairs. Which is why we landed a sunlit three-bedroom penthouse loft, complete with 30-square-meter balcony terrace, for $650, in a neighborhood where that usually buys a studio. It’s a fifth-floor walkup with no lift, so we earn the deal every day. Our legs have never looked better.

We’ve just finished another 10-week session and are enjoying a down week, which we’ll probably spend fitting out our new apartment and savoring cheap spa treatments. We might take the hydrofoil (boat) to the closest beach, but we’re not sure. Our terrace might actually be preferable.

Summer is coming up. The wet season’s all but over. It’s a great time to visit, if anyone’s up for a flight!

(Oh, and don’t worry about the storms on the news. They’re all in the north–as far from us as Sacramento is to Las Vegas). We’re living in what’s practically a western enclave now: If a storm did hit, our infrastructure here makes this the most safe, solid place to be in the country. So if you’re worried, don’t!)

We hope you’re all doing well. My international friends here send their congratulations to you and all Americans. The French magazines here proclaim: Le President Historique! Formerly-caustic British friends tell me they cried with Oprah, too. And all the North Americans at my office, save Sara (a good sport), are beside themselves with glee. I hope Lodi is feeling the love, too!

Late last Friday, we soothed our grammar-weary minds with margaritas and the company of a few fellow teachers. 

We realized all five of us were American–an anomaly in this profession–and soon, inevitably, our talk turned to the election.

It’s tough to vote here. Confusing. How do you get your ballot? How do you send it? We got ours from our Florida mailbox and eventually sent it free through FedEx, but between those two steps, we suffered hours of trekking–to the American Consulate, to the FedEx office, no: that’s the wrong office, go around the corner–before finally spotting that familiar logo and sending our votes across the ocean.

We griped about misinformation and deadlines and the cab rides into the city to do our civic duty, and then–of course–about the reason we endured it. The hope. The thrill we’ll feel if things go our way. President Obama. Imagine.

But I didn’t speak for everyone at the table. As I sipped and formed wistful sentences, I heard my friend Sara whispering a confession.

“McCain,” she answered someone quickly. “Don’t tell Heather.”

Don’t tell Heather.

Suddenly I was in college again, when I’d been the conservative in the mass of hip liberals. Had I persecuted this poor girl? Made her feel outcast? Had my Obamamania marginalized the Republicans in our office? 

I told Sara I’d heard her whisper, and promised I loved her anyway. I told her my college story–I’d been in her shoes. “Don’t worry,” I said, “I respect your choice.”

And I do. 

Not because I think it’s a good choice. I think it’s a terrible mistake–one that, if enough people make it–will send this country into perpetual war, ensure a Greater Depression, and sacrifice any remaining credibility we might have had with the outside world. 

But democracy gives her a right to choose, and besides: we’re friends. Friendship should trump politics. Family should trump politics. Even if each of us is instigating the other’s version of doom.

When I’m chatting with other Obama fans, handwringing over McCain’s latest mudsling or undressing the easily undressable Sarah Palin, sometimes a face of a loved one flashes before me, and I remember that people I love love these people. 

That they love them doesn’t make me love them, just as me loving Obama probably won’t sway the readers of our little blog. 

But if you’re on the fence, if you’re still not sure which circle you’ll ink next week, please know that our light postings of late don’t mean we’ve cooled to Obama. Our silence hasn’t been due to apathy, but respect. The respect I should have shown to Sara; the respect I didn’t always give you, in conversations before we left.

Since we came out as Obama fans last year, we’ve received some interesting e-mails. Some people found it necessary to “inform” us of “news” that hasn’t been picked up by the real media–that Obama is either: 1. A terrorist, 2. A socialist, 3. A covert Islamic extremist, or 4. A really bad guy. (Read his website to meet the real him.)

Others shared thoughts ranging from the reasoned to the inane (“Life on Earth must get worse pre-Rapture, so it’s heresy to try to improve things”; “The only foreign country we should care about is Israel–Obama’s too diplomatic”; and–truly nauseating–”Sarah Palin scares liberal feminists because she beats them at their own game.” (No, we’re scared of her because she’s a corrupt, unqualified whack job.)

Sorry. See how hard it is for me to be respectful?

In a few days, it’ll all be over, and some of us will be licking our wounds. No matter what, I look forward to talking to you about other things again. I’ll tell you about our new apartment, you can tell me about the cute things little children did, and we can all breathe deeply and take a break from politics. 

In five days, that’ll happen. For now, I’m focused. We’ve made three more donations since arriving in Vietnam, joined Obama’s e-mail campaign and made ourselves sick with anticipation. In five days, we’ll have an answer! 

We love and respect you regardless of your political affiliation. Have a great week!

Heather



IMG_4833.JPG

Originally uploaded by Angie Wieland.


It’s hard being away from our sweet little nieces, but photos like this sure make us happy. Here’s my (Heather’s) dad and our little niece Freddie, with the same expression on their travel-weary faces. They’re in Disney World right now with Angie, Guinness, and Guinness’s mom, Sharon.

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