HJS

Beijing Nights

Originally uploaded by heatherandjoel.

We haven’t been able to log onto this blog site, and we’re not sure if we’ll be able to again, but in this happy little window of access, I’ll say that we love Beijing, LOVE China, and are absolutely enthralled with this whole experience.

Last Monday afternoon, we got in a plane and landed an hour and a half later in a different world. We knew that this would happen, and we knew it would feel strange, but as with so many of our travel experiences, it was strange in a way we hadn’t anticipated.

It was strange because it felt like coming home. China is so much like the U.S.–at least Beijing is. I stand out on our massive, 28th-story terrace and see a metropolis that could easily be New York City or San Francisco. The people are cosmopolitan, often brash, and they flood the streets and subways and rush hour, pushing against the mass of people to fight their way home. No one coddles us here. No one takes my hand in the store to lead me to the special products I need. I’m not a celebrity here; I’m just a regular jane, taking up space like everyone else. I miss the movie star treatment, but it’s nice to feel like a mortal again. Prepares me for the U.S.!

There are so many things to say about the city, the Olympics preparations, the food, the culture, the sites, etc. I want to post this before I lose my opportunity, so I’ll save some stories to bore you with in person. If I can log on again, I will. If not, we’ll see you all in November!

XOXOX–Heather (and Joel!)

P.S. We’re able to post photos to our Flickr site with no problem, so check there if you’re curious!

Soju Screwdrivers Redux

Originally uploaded by heatherandjoel.

Here we are back at Haeundae spreading the California spirit. Now THIS is how to celebrate Thanksgiving!

We had a nice Chuseok, and we’ve decided we’ll probably always celebrate that holiday. It’s nice to recognize the changes in seasons and look at a full moon for proof. This full moon was bright but not as big as last year’s, but with the joke of an autumn we’ve had so far, we were just happy it was clear.

The Chuseok holidays were five days this year–one of the main reasons we signed on for that extra month. After a three-day Seoul goodbye, we went to Haeundae, our favorite place in Korea. This time, we owned the beach. Our pals were there and we were dressed for the occasion; Koreans wear real clothes in “autumn,” but we’re from California. We knew it was still summer. The sun dazzled us, turning the surf into that gelatin amber I’ve only seen here. We didn’t disguise the soju screwdrivers this time. Didn’t question the Korean teenagers who wanted pictures of me in an old faded tankini. Just drank up the stardom one last time, howling at the moon with the Frenchies who made fun of my “un baguette, sil vous plait?”

Yesterday was another Korean holiday, and the boss took us all to Gyeongju, Korea’s cultural capital. Naturally, a trip to the UNESCO mecca was like a trip through the pages of this fabled land’s history: Stunning temples, skyrise-high waterfalls, and, of course, paintball.

It’s a good lesson. Just as we ignore missions and mountains on our speedways to theme parks and Vegas, they whiz past the Buddhist shrines for more modern pleasures.

We were good sports. I kind of hate the idea of paintball, especially in these times: How ridiculous and, well, vulgur, to play at war when there’s a real one on. But the Koreans are sweet, and it would have hurt them if we’d bowed out, so we made war for love. It didn’t last long, but I did stay in the jungle enough to get five awful mosquito bites, including a giant sweller on my arm. Joel fared worse: He has two blood-red arm bruises that would make you squirm if you saw them. The good part: He didn’t need to think long for a kiddie conversation topic today.

As befits a day immersed in culture, we ended in true Korean fashion: a samgypseol (bacon and side dishes) dinner replete with soju and (s)Hite beer, followed by songs and dances at a noraebang–that’s “singing room” in Korean. It was splendid. All the old bus drivers showed up and sang us English songs that must only exist on Karaoke machines in Korea. I did a couple of Monkees tunes, and then we did a jig on the table. Only in Korea.

Tomorrow is our last day at G.A.T.E. It’s the time of year when most of my students are away studying for midterms, so I’ve only had a few tearful goodbyes so far. One of them was today–little 12-year-old Jessica. She made me a friendship bracelet. I don’t know if I’m spared or unlucky not to get to say goodbye to so many of my students–maybe a little of both. Koreans pride themselves on being in touch with their emotions, so sobbing freely isn’t out of the ordinary. Last night, one of the girls we work with held my hand, weeping, for about an hour. We’re all going out again tomorrow night. I wish I had waterproof mascara.

Maybe when I see you in person I can sum up my feelings about this year more succinctly. For now, as we prepare to leave for Beijing on Monday, I can only say that I’ve never felt more conflicted in my life. Leaving family for a year is one thing–I’ll be back. Leaving forever these people–my social circle of international pals and a cadre of kids who worship me–it’s abandoning a whole life. But as much as I love them all, I know it’s a life that would be a runner’s up trophy if I embraced it long term. I’m glad to leave. I’m devastated to leave. I can’t believe it’s time.

So. It’s Friday morning–2:30 a.m. Our alarm clock will ring in 75 hours. Then it’s Beijing for three weeks, Shanghai for one, and back on over to you. We’ll have happy holidays this year. Get ready!

I’m not sure if we’ll be able to post from China, since the government sometimes blocks access to certain sites. We’ll e-mail our parents at least every week, so if you need to reach us for some reason, contact the parent you know. Otherwise, we’ll see you in November–we fly back on the 6th!

See you soon–for real this time!

XOXXOX–Heather (and Joel)